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Discovering lesser-known areas of Cumbria is an important part of the job for a Blue Badge Guide, so it was with interest that we joined this afternoon tour in hidden Eden Valley in the village of Croglin – led by Ruth Lawley, local resident of 40 years and a very knowledgeable local historian.
We took a look at a former pele tower (now known as The Old Pele) forming part of a farmhouse dating from 14th Century. A ‘pele tower’ – pronounced ‘peel’ as in orange, rather than ‘Pelé’ the Brazilian footballer –was a type of defensive structure built throughout Cumbria (and beyond) to protect villagers and their livestock from raids across the border with Scotland. This particular building has been adapted and extended over the centuries so the tower is barely distinguishable. It does however still have a spiral staircase to the rear and 1 metre thick walls. It is thought to be linked to Wetheral Priory (approx. 12 miles away) providing accommodation for visiting monks.
Historically the main industries in the village included mining (for coal) and lime burning on the fell (hill) side, where one can still see the evidence of slag heaps today. Residents’ occupations are recorded as a lime burner along with other trades, including a blacksmith (who was also the post master) a wheel-wright, a miller and various shop-keepers – demonstrating that it was a self-contained village, not relying on the main market town at nearby Brampton.
Adding to this evidence, there is a history of religious non-conformity in the area and on the fellside, with many Methodist chapels still in evidence today. Croglin chapel dates from 1874 site: partway up the hill, on the main road exiting the village, it is now a private house.
Ruth showed us the church of St. John the Baptist – which she explained is not the original church dating from 12th Century, but was rebuilt in 1874, when it was re-sited just a short distance away from its original position. Described as the warmest church on the fellside, it certainly didn’t feel like that on our visit! Unfortunately due to a dwindling congregation the church finally closed its doors in 2012. However an organisation called ‘the Helm’ wants to redevelop it as a community centre and visitor centre.
Whilst at the church we were presented with two mysterious grave slabs. Firstly, that of Bishop Robert Dechauncy dating from 1278: a mystery because it is recorded that he is buried in Carlisle Cathedral, and it is quite unique to find a bishop buried in a village church! Secondly, Lady Wharton’s tomb, which possibly dates from 13th century (1212) – unusual in that it is found outside the church, in the graveyard. Note: the Wharton family were the Lords of Manor in the district; the family dates from the time of the Domesday Book.
We learned of the village Grammar School, dated from after the English Civil War (1651) when a cleric was invited by the Lord of the Manor to teach Latin in the manor. Built halfway between Croglin and Newbiggin, it is the earliest elementary school in Cumbria. We heard stories of various rectors who bequeathed a library, as well as an endowment for village children to access education, which is still used today.
We ended the day in traditional fashion with tea & cake in the village hall, after which we participated in storytelling of local legends and riddles, all curated by Fran Pett. Some examples, for those who wish to delve further, are: Croglin Water by William Wordsworth; the tale of Long Meg and her daughters; St Michael and the Dragon; and the tale of the Croglin Vampire.
Words and images by Simon Blenkinsop
14th Feb 2023
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